So I am stuck. Any ideas here? Thanks, Nathan. Mine is also the same as the post above. I cannot get mine to unscrew at the stand. Fortunately, the broken piece on mine is the middle piece.
So if you see this Nathan, How did you remove the leg from the head mount? Am I not turning it hard enough? Posted by charlie trash on January 30, at pm. Mine is the same as the other two also. I removed the legs from the base, disassembled the legs and cleaned them, but I made no attempt to replace my thin worn plastic rings.
You are commenting using your WordPress. You are commenting using your Google account. You are commenting using your Twitter account.
You are commenting using your Facebook account. Notify me of new comments via email. Notify me of new posts via email. Create a free website or blog at WordPress. Nick's Knack Tinkering at it's Finest. Thanks to the digital nature of D-STAR, the sound quality of a typical signal is excellent, at least until the other ham gets close to the edge of his or her repeater's coverage area, when the signal starts to sound like digital beeps and boops, which are often called "R2-D2" after the noises made by the robot in Star Wars.
The intent of this requirement isn't quite clear, but my guess is that it's meant to keep "riff-raff" out of the system. If so, this policy is already obsolete; many dealers are happy to register the call sign of any customer who buys a D-STAR radio, no questions asked.
Until you're registered you'll only be able to talk on your local D-STAR repeater; your signal won't be transmitted to any linked repeater. Your local D-STAR repeater might have a web page where you can request to be registered, but generally the best method is to find the person who maintains the local D-STAR repeater, and ask nicely to be registered. You must only be registered by the operator of a single repeater, so don't ask more than one person to register you.
It's possible to set up your radio for D-STAR and program your radio's memory channels using the front panel controls and the microphone, but that procedure is very complicated. I don't recommend that you program your radio manually except in an emergency, and this document won't tell you how. I highly recommend that you program your radio with a computer instead. If you have a different radio model then you'll need to track down software that works with your radio. RT Systems sells software and cables that are easy to use, but are pricey, and only work on Windows.
In addition to software, you'll also need a USB-to-RS converter cable, unless your computer has a serial port. You'll also need the programming cable that came with your radio. There are inexpensive cables with "clones" of Prolific chips that are difficult to get to work, thanks to driver difficulties. If this sounds like too much hassle and you don't mind spending more money, you can always buy the RT Systems software and cable for your radio, which generally "just works".
I recommend that you learn how to use the radio, and your programming software, with FM repeaters before you mess with D-STAR; that way you won't have to learn everything at once. Of course you'll also need to set the mode "DV" and frequency, and if you're trying to talk through a repeater, the offset. At least there are no PL tones to worry about. When using the calculator only change one thing at a time, and each time you change something the page will take several seconds to reload; be patient.
Hints: always select "Local Repeater with Gateway" rather than "Local Repeater"; have a look at the Calculator's help page. The "module", "port", or "node" all three words mean the same thing of a D-STAR repeater refers to the band. Icom makes modules for 2m MHz , 70cm MHz , and 25cm 1. By the way, the "A" port or module is on 1.
In the RPT2 setting "G" is often used, e. In this case "G" doesn't refer to a module, but rather the gateway, which is a computer that connects the repeater to the internet. Connecting the local repeater to another repeater or repeaters over the internet is extremely popular with D-STAR users.
There are two different ways to do so. In the beginning, there was Call sign routing, and it was good. You can either specify the specific repeater and node, or you can route your transmissions to the repeater and node that a specific ham last used.
With call sign routing, there is no permanent link established; your local repeater simply routes your transmissions over the internet to another repeater and node according to your instructions. If a ham using the other repeater node wants to talk back to you, she must set up her radio to route her transmissions to your repeater and node. Some examples follow. Be patient and wait at least a couple minutes, so that an operator on the other repeater can stop what he or she is doing and program the radio to route his or her transmissions to your repeater and node.
They may or may not be corrected in the downloadable manuals I have put together, due to the extra effort and since the provided manuals are just pure reproductions of what existed, so have both historical and functional value. Have something to ask or share? Printed Manuals for Purchase. Pre models Izarra Model Model No manuals.
Even more than in other series, these pistols are essentially identical. Some vary only in caliber. The "Super" variant is a significant change, but also applies to all lettered models.
Model No manual.
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