In FWD and to a lesser extend AWD cars, optimal front camber also depends on how hard the driver accelerates and how much power the car has. The tire compound, in particular its optimal temperature range and resistance to heat buildup, also come into play. A FWD car heating up its front tires past their optimal temperature range will compromise all of its performance characteristics - acceleration, braking and turning.
This may call for less front camber than a similar RWD car would use. However, if the same FWD car manages to keep its front tires within their ideal temperature envelope, it can be more aggressive with the front camber, which can be useful as FWD cars often need all of the front camber they can get to combat the understeer resulting from their unfavorable weight distribution.
Camber in the rear of a car works on the same principles as camber in the front, but with more nuances. Insufficient rear camber will produce a car that has less rear grip in the corners than it does on the straights, making the car loose on corner entries off throttle. The car may be prone to spinning when trailbraked.
Adding camber will make the rear of the car more planted in the corners. Excessive rear camber will produce a reduced rear contact patch size in all conditions, potentially resulting in power oversteer in corner exits in higher power RWD cars, and a car that is loose everywhere in lower power RWD cars. Again, tire wear will probably provide the most clues as to what is happening. FWD track cars may resort to extreme amounts of rear camber to balance the car by reducing rear end grip.
Running a lot of rear camber would also heat up the rear tires more, which may be necessary if the car has a hard time getting enough heat into the rear tires otherwise, such as due to being required by the rules to run the same size tires front and rear. Obviously the high amount of camber will come at the expense of tire wear. Some cars, for example Miatas, desire a specific front to rear camber difference to maintain the handling balance.
Other cars can have the front and rear camber settings be completely independent. As long as the camber is not excessive in the sense that it begins to reduce the tire contact patch size under all conditions, making the front camber more negative while keeping the rear camber fixed will make the car oversteer more, while making the rear camber more negative while keeping the front camber fixed will make the car understeer more.
A common, though by no means universal, pattern is to have more rear camber than front camber on street cars to maintain significant understeer and more front camber than rear camber on track cars to get more neutral handling. Caster is whether the bottom of the suspension is forward of the top of the suspension positive caster or rearward negative caster.
Usually cars have positive caster, the question is only how much of it. Caster only applies to the front steered axle. Most of the discussion around caster centers on steering effort. In cars where caster helps avoid positive camber gain in corners, it makes sense to run maximum caster possible.
Depending on your car, you may not be able to adjust all of the parameters. For example, cars with solid rear axles generally cannot adjust rear camber. Many cars require aftermarket camber plates to adjust front camber.
Aftermarket control arms are frequently offered to allow adjustment of toe and camber on all corners of a car. Research what adjustments are possible on your vehicle. New Cars. Car Culture. Type keyword s to search.
Today's Top Stories. DriveTribe Is Shutting Down. We at RacelineCentral. With all this said, we still manage to get the occasional file leecher linking to our downloads instead of pages. Most of the time we send a simple email with our site logs showing the issue and it gets corrected rather quickly. On the other hand, we have had a couple down right web noobies bluntly take complete page codes, files, scripts.
Doesn't sound like a big deal until your site logs start show you may over use your bandwidth and then have to pay extra to keep the site open.
This happens when the thieving website just continues to use your files right off your server because they apparently are not wise enough to change links in the stolen pages. It's not like we don't notice this stuff going on. Ever heard of site logs? Our site logs show everything there is about the site thieves and all connections to it, etc. There is a digital trail that sticks out in red among all the other entries and a person would have to be blind not to notice.
Our serving company also works with us closely. We had a person that was doing this and has the balls to place a copyright notice on his page for our graphics. This same person was charging money to visitors for access to pages and files and I'm sure other website files too.
So, as we try to prevent this type of BS problem from continually happening, we kindly request to please do your best to reframe from uncivilized internet web page action. Think about it for a bit This guy was stupid enough that he was running a site that was being hosted on a server which comes with plenty of room for his files also, but he is sucking bandwidth off our site. It goes to show you, there are people out there without any clue.
They don't care what they do to others in their dirty trail, thinking they are the only one that deserves what they get, as they grab at will whatever they want from whoever they choose to steal it from. God help us all! Thank You! By clicking on the contents you will be taken directly to the info your looking for. Whenever I bring up the left or side of the car I'm talking about the drivers side. The right side of the car is the passenger side. By holding your mouse over a setup option for a few seconds in the sim, you will be given a brief description of how that adjustment works or what it affects.
Right clicking an option brings up the description right away. One last thing I must mention before turning the wrenches. It is important to understand that for every adjustment you attempt, it may not produce the desired results right away as mentioned below. You may have other chassis adjustments that are not quite right masking the problems your trying to adjust for.
Because of this factor, you may not see as drastic a change in your adjustments after just one change. You may have to readjust another chassis component to so call "free" up your original adjustment.
If you feel your setup is close, yet seems to be lacking that one minor adjustment, it may be more involved that just adjusting one more component. You may have to "undo" another few adjustments elsewhere then go back to your original adjustment to get it just right.
For every action you take, there will be a counteraction that may not appear at first to be in the best interest of your setup. There may be times when you may have to take two steps back to gain one step forward. Because of this, chassis adjustments can become frustrating to figure out. It isn't easy, as many WC teams find out on any given Sunday.
The only way to understand how your car is reacting is through seat time. The more laps you turn, or practice you get; the better off you will be in deciding what your trouble points are on the track.
Learn how to hit the same line lap after lap with the default setups packaged with NASCAR Racing before attempting any other adjustments. The biggest mistake rookie drivers make, are trying to adjust a chassis for what they believe is an ill handling car. I get so many emails from drivers that think the default easy, intermediate or fast setups that come with the sim are terrible because they cannot drive them.
You must become comfortable with these default setups before you should even look into tinkering with any adjustments in the garage. Begin with the easy setup, then graduate to the intermediate setup and lastly the fast setup. Only when you can run clean consistent laps with the easy setup, should you move up to the intermediate setup.
The same goes with the intermediate setup before graduating to the fast. If you cannot drive them properly its because you simply do not have enough seat time and or experience. I can't stress enough the importance of adjusting only ONE component at a time. Making more than one change is nonproductive because you won't be able to determine what change made the car better or worse. It is critical to take notes after every adjustment you make. With all the adjustments available to make, it's real easy to forget what adjustment you made 3 practice sessions ago.
Record keeping is important. If you do go the wrong way with an adjustment you can always set it back to where it was before making the change by simply referring back to your notes. These notes could be useful for setups at tracks with similar configurations which can turn out to be a real time saver.
This will help you decide what to adjust if a similar situation arises at another track. Weather changes are another reason that record keeping becomes a must. The changes in the handling of your car in various weather conditions seems a lot more pronounced that previous releases. This is especially true for gearing and tape. In general, you ll want to loosen the car up some as the temperatures go up and tighten the chassis some as it gets colder.
I've included two setup sheets with this guide to help track your chassis adjustments. One is a chassis setup sheet for you to track all of your chassis settings. The second is a tire temperature sheet for logging tire temperature after practice sessions.
Simply print as many of these sheets as you like to help aid in your record management. Here is another helpful GearRatios sheet tool also. One of the more overlooked aspects of chassis setup is the driver himself. Driver consistency is very important when trying to determine how a car is reacting throughout a corner.
As a driver it's very easy to mislead yourself into believing how your car is reacting through a corner. I see many drivers getting loose into the corners.
Now in an effort to get back low into the racing-groove, you jerk the wheel hard left applying throttle causing yourself to be loose. You may think your setup is all out to lunch when the fact of the matter is that it's you causing two thirds of the problem all because your loose entering the turn. Because of this, it is important to divide each corner into 3 sections. Each section of the turn will be effected by how you negotiated the previous section.
Corner entry is where you begin your chassis adjustments. If you can't get into a corner, don't bother adjusting for the rest of the corner. Don't mislead yourself into believing the car is doing something that it isn't. In the above example you must take care of the loose condition entering the corner before you setup for the rest of the corner.
Once your happy with the setup entering the corner, work on how the car feels in the middle. Many times by simply curing your corner entry problems, you'll cure your middle or exiting problems. This is because you won't be making corrections to either loosen or tighten up the car based on corner entry problems. Negative camber is the tilt of the top of the tire towards the center of the vehicle. Positive camber is the tilt of the top of the tire away from the center of the vehicle.
Camber adjustments are utilized to help maintain the maximum grip allowable from the surface of the tire through the corners of the track. Proper camber adjustments are very critical for achieving maximum cornering speeds. Proper camber adjustments are achieved by reading tire temperatures. In a WC car you are allowed camber adjustments on all 4 tires. Contact Patch When camber is set correctly it allows the entire surface of the tire to adhere to the track thus maximizing the use of the tire contact patch when taking a corner at high speed.
Running camber as such will create part of the pull to left that will help the car get through the corner easier. The more excessive the cambers the greater the pull can be. Running excessive amounts of camber will cause premature tire wear due to the fact that the tires aren't running on the full contact patch of the racing tire. As a general rule, the flatter or slower the track the more camber you'll need on both front tires.
Another factor in determining camber is body roll. The more the car "rolls" over through a corner the more negative camber you will need in the RF. The stiffer the springs, the less body roll. The less body roll, the less amount of negative camber required in the RF.
Rear camber is not as critical as front camber due to the fact that the rear end is solid axle. On a flatter track you may not need any camber in the rear.
In fact it's the only way to properly adjust for correct amounts of camber. Since you must constantly monitor tire temperatures you will always be readjusting camber at least in the front.
Maybe it wasn't the spring change that made you slower it was your camber being off that made you slower. Readjust the camber after running 20 laps with that spring change then decide if that was really the wrong way to go. Did you go faster after making the spring change? If it doesn't work, you'll at least know how to set it back to where is was before you started.
Less negative RF camber takes away some of the pull to the left. More negative LF camber will reduce the pull to the left while tightening the chassis from the middle out. More positive camber in the RR will loosen the car from the middle out. More negative camber in the LR will loosen the chassis entering a corner.
Caster Caster is the leaning forward or back of the tire at the top of the wheel. Do not confuse this with camber which is the inward or outward tilt of the wheel at the top. Positive caster is when the wheel is tilted back toward the rear of the vehicle. Negative caster is when the wheel is tilted forward toward the front of the vehicle.
Caster is used to provide directional steering stability. When thinking of caster, think of a tool box, TV stand, chair, or anything else that has 4 wheels on it that swivel to help you move it across the floor. When you push an object like this across the floor you'll notice that the wheels will swivel back allowing you to push forward with ease. This is positive caster. This is negative caster. I'm sure you know how difficult it is to push something with the wheels in this forward or negative position.
Besides being difficult to push, it also has a tendency to take off in an unwanted direction until the casters spin in a positive direction. For the same reasons we want our chair to slide across the floor with ease, we want our race car to do the same. When setting your chassis you'll want to tip the top of the wheels back adding positive caster to provide you with that straight ahead directional stability.
More caster can also provide a more difficult steering effort, especially with a force feedback wheel. More positive caster will also give you a better feel for the car. More caster will allow you to make better decisions on the track about how the car is handling. So why not crank the caster positive as far as it will go? Because too much positive caster also has it's drawbacks. When you turn a car left with positive caster the LF rises while the RF drops.
This changes the weight on all 4 corners of the car. In effect you're taking cross weight out of the car the more you turn the wheel. The more positive the caster, the more cross weight there is being removed. The more cross weight you remove the looser the car will get. Higher caster settings allow you to catch power slides on exit a little bit easier as well. Another element that must be considered is the caster split or caster stagger as I like to call it.
Caster stagger is simply using different settings on the LF wheel than the RF. When caster settings are different, your steering will tend to pull toward the side with the least amount of caster. On tracks where your only turning left, you would want a higher positive caster setting on the RF than the LF. This more positive caster on the RF will make the car pull to the left entering the turns, which is the preferred setup for entering the corners. The higher the caster stagger you run the easier the car will turn itself into the corner.
Caster stagger will also affect braking. If you run too much stagger at tracks that require heavy braking such as Martinsville or the road courses, you may have to add brake bias. Although a better trade-off would be just to even up the caster allowing you to brake harder without causing the car to pull to the side with the least amount of caster.
Caster stagger is NOT the only adjustment that will give you that pull to the left. Many other factors must also be considered. In other words, if you ran 1 degree positive on the LF, you would run positive 3 or 4 on the RF. Simulating the pull that a stock car gets in a game is going to yield different results for different types of controllers.
To add to this variation, the Linearity setting you choose in setting up your controller, in combination with the steering ratio you choose within the setup is going to contribute in making the pull feel different from user to user.
Do you see real drivers using counter steering down the straights? No, because they can center the wheel on the steering shaft. Is the pull still there for them? You can get your controller to center on the straights by how you calibrate it, get rid of it entirely if you like. Will you still feel the pull? No, why? Your controller isn't hooked up to the suspension of a stock car, so you're not going to be able to feel the dynamic pull that the suspension creates.
Furthermore, your steering wheel doesn't have the range of motion as a real car. At best you're probably getting from to degrees of motion, and much less on a Joystick maybe 90 degrees if you're lucky?
A real car has what, maybe 3 to 4 full rotations from lock to lock? With this in mind the game has to have Steering Ratio values that can compensate for the lack of true lock-to-lock movement. The differences in degrees of lock to lock motion between a joystick and a wheel is why the Linearity setting makes such a big difference, it has to in order to make all types of controllers usable. You just need to find the setting that is comfortable to you.
Caster synopsis: More positive caster will loosen the chassis the more the wheel is turned through a corner. More positive caster will allow you to catch slides on exit a little easier. Caster adjustments are better felt through a force feedback wheel.
The car will pull to the side with the lower amount of positive caster. The higher the caster stagger, the easier the car will turn into a corner. The higher the caster stagger, the easier the car will break loose braking into a corner. The higher the caster stagger, the less steering effort required. This will tend to give you a loose feeling upon corner entry. Differential Ratio The differential is a gear assembly in the rear end whose purpose is to distribute torque to the rear wheels for traction.
It is always a good idea to clean your laptop screen or monitor before gaming. Learn how to clean a laptop screen or monitor safely with a few different alternative methods. The ratio expresses the number of turns required by the pinion which is attached to the output shaft of the transmission to turn the drive axle one revolution, i.
A higher number 6. Short gearing gives quicker acceleration, but because the engine must turn faster, fuel mileage and top speed are lower.
Tall gears give smoother acceleration and higher top speed, at the expense of quick acceleration. We are allowed to choose from no less than 49 different ratios with an adjustment range from as low as 2.
When you change the differential ratio, you change all the final drive ratios together proportionally. On short tracks you will want to choose a higher differential ratio because quicker acceleration will be a must at tracks where speeds are not as high.
At super speedways you'll want a smaller ratio for top speed since quick acceleration is not necessary on a track where you're at full throttle most of the time. The most important factor when considering what ratio to use is that you don't choose a ratio that is too high. Too high a differential ratio will result in running higher rpms.
If, by the time you reach the end of a straightaway, you're running higher than rpms. The rev limiter is used to prevent us from running too high an rpm, which could result in a blown engine. You must watch your tach when changing gear ratios. If you're running too high an rpm you will also notice it through the sound of your engine as a "missing" sound.
As you adjust other chassis components, you will most likely find yourself having to change your differential ratio. As you find more speed through the corners, you'll eventually find yourself on the throttle quicker.
Since you're on the throttle sooner you will be running a higher rpm towards the end of a straightaway. This is likely going to force you to make a differential change. Provides quicker acceleration, but slower top speeds. Provides slower acceleration, but higher top speeds. This is a non-adjustable option that is basically used for comparison purposes. The final drive ratio represents the number of engine revolutions to rear wheel revolutions.
The final drive ratios can be viewed for all four gears. A higher number means a lower or shorter gear. Your final drive ratio will be the same as your differential ratio.
Front Bias The Front bias can be adjusted by clicking the weight bias tab on the garage screen. Front bias is the amount of weight on the front of the chassis as compared to the rear of the chassis.
Front bias is determined by placing lead weight at various points as low as possible in the chassis. Sliding this weight forward gives you more front weight or bias. The most front bias were allowed is The least amount is Generally speaking, the flatter the track, the more front bias required.
The higher the banking the less front bias required. This is because the higher banked tracks require less braking which in turn means less weight is being transferred to the front of the vehicle. Less front bias or more rear bias would be preferred at a track like Talladega. A slower track that requires shorter gear ratios, will also require less front bias. This is due to the problem of wheel spin that can occur during acceleration.
You would rather have less front bias or more rear bias to help transfer weight to the rear quicker to avoid wheel spin. Just the opposite would be true when a higher gear ratio is required. The less front bias you run the looser the chassis will be. Experimentation once again with all these variables will be the only way to correctly determine the proper front weight bias given the various circumstances.
Another factor that must be considered when dealing with front bias is Fuel. As fuel is burned, your rear weight distribution is lowered. Although your not directly changing your front bias, you will be affecting the amount of weight that is being transferred as fuel is burned.
This will result in an ever changing car as fuel dissipates. Front Bias synopsis: More front bias will tighten the chassis.
Less front bias will loosen the chassis. Front Brake Bias Many people believe that the brakes in a racecar are used for nothing more than slowing or stopping the car.
Nothing could be further from the truth. Properly adjusted brakes can improve lap times by allowing you to get into a corner better. Front brake bias allows us that same exact adjustment. Because of these varying factors more or less front brake needs to be "dialed" into the car. Since this will vary with each corner at each track, it is important to find the right balance as not to upset the chassis when you apply the brakes while cornering.
It is important not to confuse a loose or tight condition upon entry with a front brake bias problem IF your problem doesn't occur when using the brakes. On the other hand, your chassis may not be tight or loose on entry, but because you have the incorrect front brake bias set into the chassis, you're creating a problem when using the brakes. It is real easy to mask or create an I'll handling car getting into a corner by making a front brake bias adjustment.
The more front brake bias higher the number you have set in the car the tighter the car will be on entry.
The lower the number the looser the chassis will be. This tight or loose condition from front brake bias will only occur while your on the brakes entering the turn. Some may try to add front brake bias to tighten up the chassis going in, but unless your using the brakes going in, changing front brake bias will be useless. Plus the fact remains that you are only masking the problem of the loose condition by trying to compensate with a brake adjustment.
You might want to adjust the chassis elsewhere to tighten the car up on entry. So how do you know when you have the correct amount of front brake bias? I believe the correct brake bias is determined by how the chassis reacts when hitting the brakes hard going into a corner without locking them up. It is important not to steer any more than is necessary.
Any added steering inputs can throw off your results due to the added weight transfer that occurs while turning. How did the chassis react? You ll probably also want to make sure that you re not using any caster stagger during this test. Once you have the brake bias the way you want it, you can go back and work on the compromise between caster stagger needed for turn-in but not so much it causes you to use to much front brake bias.
Front Brake Bias synopsis: More front brake bias will tighten the chassis entering a corner under braking. Less front brake bias will loosen the chassis entering a corner under braking. Front Roll Couple Whenever you turn, there is going to be some body roll. Body roll has to be handled by the suspension system so the tires won t break traction.
Since Cup cars use independent suspension, the front and rear of the chassis handle their share of body roll separately as it passes through the front and rear roll centers. Roll couple percentage is how much body roll is distributed between the front and the rear suspension systems. Since we know the stiffest end of the car will slide first, roll couple provides a pretty good indication of whether the chassis is going to be loose or tight. If the front slides first, the chassis is tight and if the rear slides first the chassis is loose.
Figuring out roll couple is a complex formula that includes roll rate, track width, spring rate, sway bar lengths and thickness, anti roll lever lengths and rates, and tire pressures. Increasing the front springs and sway bars as well as decreasing the rear springs and sway bars will increase roll couple while doing exactly the opposite will decrease roll couple.
The higher the front percentage number, the more under steer pushing there is in a chassis. Conversely, the less front roll couple, the more over steer loose.
The reason the front roll couple percentage is so much higher than the rear roll couple is because most of the weight transfer from inside to outside during cornering should be led by the front or non driving wheels. There is also a direct correlation of weight distribution and roll couple. However, many cars cannot make the 50 percent left-side weight percentage due to driver offset.
Still, it is a worthwhile goal to strive for 50 percent left-side weight. Rear weight percentage for road racing and autocrossing is less definite. The more power a car has, the more that static weight over the drive wheels helps acceleration off the corners.
Additionally, it is much more difficult to change rear percentage much, since rear weight is mostly a design function. It still pays to be thoughtful about weight placement fore and aft in your car.
The only way to change the static weight distribution percentages is to physically move weight around in the car. Jacking weight will not alter the left side or the rear percentages. To calculate cross-weight percentage, add the RF weight to the LR weight and divide the sum by the total weight of the car. Cross-weight is also called wedge: If the percentage is over 50 percent, the car has wedge; if below 50 percent, the car has reverse wedge.
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